Machine for pulling over and cement lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper

ABSTRACT

A machine for pulling over and cement lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper is provided with a drafting head with lasting tools or pincers positioned above a last with a shoe upper thereon and mounted on power-driven slides adapted to advance the head together with the lasting tools in perpendicular directions for longitudinal drafting and transverse pulling over of a shoe upper on the last. One of said lasting tools is stationary with respect to the housing of the head, while the other tool, the toe one, is mounted on an individual slide adapted to advance this lastmentioned tool to underlie the toe part of the last and thus to grip the forepart of the upper. The machine is further provided with lasting plates spaced from the last and mounted on a powerdriven slide adapted to advance the plates horizontally toward the last at lasting.

United States Patent 1191 Smirnov et al.

1451 July 23, 1974 f MACHINE FOR PULLING OVER AND CEMENT LASTING OF THE FOREPART OF A SHOE UPPER Inventors: Mikhail Dmitrievich Smirnov,

Filed:

Moskovsky prospekt, 175, kv. 7; Boris Alexandrovich Ershov, Drovyanoi pereulok, 10, kv. 17; Vladilen Nikolaevich Savitsk'y,

Zanevsky prospekt, 32, kv. 83, all of Leningrad; Boris Dmitrievich Breev, Krasnopresnenskaya naberezhnaya, 1/2, kv. 28, Moscow; Anatoly Alexandrovich Atkarsky, Derbenevskaya naberezhnaya, 13/17, korpus 3, kv. 78, Moscow;

Svyatoslav Viktorovic'h Shardakov,

Samarkandsky bulvar, 32, korpus 1, kv. 106, Moscow; David Aronovich Sinajuk, Bolotnikovskaya ulitsa, 38, lgorpus l, kv. 6, Moscow; Vladimir Nikolaevich Stukalov, ulitsa 11 1 lnternatsionala 135, kv. 48; Leonid Vasilievich Puzynya, prospekt Engelsa 22, kv. -5, both of Leningrad, all of USSR.

July 10, 1973 Appl. No.: 377,913

US. (:1. 12 105 1m. 01 A430 21/00 Field of Search 12/101, 10.2, 10.21, 10.3, 12/104, 14.5, 10.8, 11.3

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,165,771 1/1965 Kamborian et al. 12/105 3,397,417 8/1968 Kamborian et al.

3,727,257 4/1973 Pelletier et al 12/105 -Primary ExaminerPatrick D. Lawson Attorney, Agent, or Firm-I-lolman & Stern [57] V ABSTRACT A machine for pulling over and cement lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper is provided with a drafting head with lasting tools or pincers positioned above a last with a shoe upper thereon and 'mounted on powerdriven slides adapted to advance the head together with the lasting tools in perpendicular directions for longitudinal drafting and transverse pulling over of a shoe upper on the last. One of said lasting tools is stationary with respect to the housing of thehead,

, while the other tool, the toe one, is mounted on an individual slide adapted to advance this last-mentioned tool to underlie the toe part of the last and .thus to grip the forepart of the upper. The machine is further provided with lasting plates spaced from the last and mounted on a power-driven slide adapted to advance the plates horizontally toward the last at lasting.

7 3Clainis, 11 Drawing Figures- PATENTED JUL 2 31974 SHEET 1 0F 7 A FIE] LASTING OF THE FOREPART OF A SHOE UPPER BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the footwear industry, and, more particularly, to machines for pulling over and cement lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper.

The invention may be employed to utmost advantage in semi-automatic and fully-automatic footwear production lines where pulling over and lasting of a shoe upper is effected on a last mounted sole up.

In the present disclosure the expression a shoe up- PSF is mana e. id sa sjh .ssmrqnsntesrtssia shoe upper that have been already either sewn or secured together in any known way, including a forepart, a vamp, and quarters with a backstitch with a counter and a puff that have been already applied.

There are known in the footwear industry semiautomatic machines for pulling over and cement lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper on a last positioned sole up. Among these known machines there is one manufactured by ALBEKO of the German Federal Republic, Model 426 (see, for example, the Catalogue of AL- BEKO machines for the footwear industry, dated 1961).

In these known machines a shoe upper with a precemented lasting edge is received about a last positioned sole up. The toe of the upper is graded by a pair of lasting plates moving upwardly. A pair of springurged stop-irons, positioned above the lasting plates, smooth out the wrinkles'of the lasting edge, while moving from the central-axis of the sole toward the edges of the last.

Thereafter there is effected a manually controlled operation of lasting the forepart of the upper by the' heated lasting plates in cooperation with the stop-irons,

a support plate exerting pressure upon the lasting plates to obtain a clear lasting edge,

Vertical positioning of the heel part of the upper is effected visually, by a corresponding scratchmark provided on the last.

' The above described 'lrraaaoasenfie i rstmrad' vertically in respect of the last, the pincers being mov-' able as a body solely vertically together with their support deck which latter is mounted on the plunger rod of a hydraulic'cylinder. The last-described system is bulky and incapable of movingthe deck with the pineershori'zoritally, which prohibits its use for puiliiig over and lasting a shoe upper-on a last positioned .sole

S U MMARY OF THE INVENTTON Itis an object of the present invention to eliminate the above disadvantages of the known machines.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a machine for pulling over and cement lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper, said machine should be incorporable in semi-automatic and fully-automatic footwear production lines.

It is an important object of the present invention to provide a machine with increased productivity.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide a machine that should provide for higher quality of the manufactured footwear.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a machine which should provide for improved labour conditions. i

These and other objects are attained in a machine for pulling over and cement lasting'of the forepartpf' a shoe upper, including a'last adapted to receive thereon a shoe upper, positioned sole up, andlasting for use in conventional footwear production, where cemounted on specific devices, i. e. on :so-called last carriers. The lasts in such lines are, as a rule, made of metal and have electric heaters rno rge ijhereir ide. Should aknowii rnachineof the above described type be incorporated in such production lines, the heated-up heavy last is to be removed from the carrier' and placed on the last support in the lasting machine, which might result in the operators hands being burnt, whereas the necessity of removing the lasts complicates the structure of the latter and increases the cost of the lasts and their carriers. Thus, both the reliability of the performance of the production lines and their productivity are affected.

There is also known a lasting machine, Model 63 D marketed by SCHON of the German Federal Republic. This machine effects lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper on a last positioned sole down.

The machine has seven lasting tools or pincers mounted on a support deck and pivotable toward the last. At lasting, these pincers are precisely positioned plates associated with drive means advancing said plates toward the last for lasting the forepart of the shoe upper thereupon, said machine, in accordance with the present invention, further incorporates line of said last and being stationary with respect tothehousing of said drafting head, the other one of said pincers being we pincers mounted oii an inde pendently driven slide adapted to move saidtoe pincersto underlie the toe part of said last, to grip said forepart of said shoe upper, as well as to return said toe pincers to the initial position thereof, to guide the edges of said upper into said stationary pincers, said,

lasting plates being positioned relative to said last so that the ends thereof are spaced from said toe part of said last, said plates being mountedon a power-driven slide adapted to advance said plates horizontally toward said last at lasting. A machine of the herein disclosed structure is incor porable in semi-automatic and fully-automatic footwear production lines, since the incorporation of the slide adapted to move said drafting head with said pin cers horizontally and of the slide associated with said lasting plates provides for effecting pulling over and cement lasting of a shoe upper on a last'without removing said last from its carrier. Furthermore, the herein disclosed construction of the machine provides for increased productivity and better labour conditions, as well as for better quality of the footwear being manufactured. i The "increased productivity is attained bythe'sim plified introduction of the end portion of a shoe -effects vertical motion of this head, the

1 wherein:

- spring-biased stop;

I nproved quality of the footwear being manufacturecT is obtained by longitudinaTdFaftfiig and eloser hugging of the last by the upper, attained in combination with widely employed transverse pull-over.

To ensure adequately accurate travel of the toe pincers to underlie the toe part of the last, the machine fiiftTIef includes a camplate mounted on the holder for the toe pincers, and an abutment strip rigidly;

secured to the slide of the drafting head, which! interacting in operation with this strip.

To position the shoe upper vertically, the machine also includes a spring-urged stop mounted on the arm of the heel clamp adaptedto secure the shoe upper on the last after it has been tical direction.

The provision of this stop increases the productivity of labour and facilitates positioning of the shoe upper prior to securing it on the last with the heel clamp. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING 3 rrtasresemvenfiai will bebate'r fidisidd i'rbifithe following description of an embodiment thereof, .'With reference to A the accompanying drawings,

. 3 FIG. "1 is a' general :side elevation view of the herein disclosed machine; A I

FIG. 2 is.a longitudinally sectional view of the drafting head with the pincers;" 1

FIG. 3 is a longitudinally sectional v pincers; I 1

FIG. 4 is a longitudinally. sectional view of the middle pincers;

FIG. 5 is FIG. 4;

FIG.

a sectional view taken along line V --V in is a sectional view taken along line yl yl in,

FIG. 7 is a partly sectional side elevation view of the slide with the lasting plates mounted thereon;

FIG. 8 is a plan view of the slide shown in FIG. 7; FIG. 9 is a view taken along line A in FIG. 8; I FIG. is a side elevation view of the mechanism for securing a shoe upper on the last, including the' FIG. 1 1 illustrates the drive diagram of the herein closed machine.

GENERAL DEsCRIPTION OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MACHINE The herein disclosed machine includes a framework 60 cluding clamps l3 securing therebetween a carrier 14 with a last 15 positioned, as item be seen from the drawing, with its sole facing upwardly. The last is camplatel 2 properly positioned in the veradapted to support thereon a shoe upper, to have the forepart of this upper pulled over and cement lasted by the herein disclosed machine. The machine further incorporates a mirror 16 to enable the operator to evaluate the quality of the pull-over and lasting operation.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION or THE ASSEMBLIEs W O THE MACHINE The drafting head 2 has a welded housing mounted on power-driven slides 4 and 17. The slide 4 effects vertical motion of the drafting head for transverse pullover of the upper on the last. The slide 4 is driven by a hydraulic cylinder 18 connected with a slide through a bracket 19. The slide 17 effects horizontal motion of the drafting head for longitudinal drafting of the upper. The slide 17 is driven by a hydraulic cylinder '20 mounted on the rear wall 21 of the slide 17.

The set 3 of pivotable pincers includes toe pincers 22, a pair of middle pincers 23 and a pair of forepart pincers 24. V I

The toe pincers 22 (FIG. 3.) includes a stationary jaw 25 and a movable jaw 26 mounted on a housing 27 secured by pins to a sleeve 28. The latter is clamped by a clamp 29 in a holder 30 mounted for pivoting motion to and from the lastrA set screw 31 is provided for ad- 01 f 32 with a stationary housing 33 and a movable plunger j the jaws.

34 adapted to effect closing of the jawsof the pincers througha rod 35; A spring 36 provides for opening of The lower working space of the hydraulic cylinder 32 is hermetically sealed, so that no oil should leak from the cylinder and stain the footwear being processed. iew of the toe The holder 30 is mounted on a driven slide 37, so that the pincers 22 can be forwarded to underlie the toe r z 1 r t of the last and to grip the toe partof the upper the slide.

tion, during which motion the pincers guide the edges of the upper into themiddle and forepart pincers 23 and 24. The slide 37 is reciprocated by a hydraulic cylinder 38 through a threaded plunger rod 39 attached to The slide 37 is mounted on theslide 4 of the drafting head. To provide for a curvilinear path of motion of the pincers 22 to underlie the last, as well as for a curvilinear path of return of thepincers, the holder dis- 30 has a camplate 40 rigidly secured thereto, the camplate engaging a stationary abutment strip 41 rigidly se-. cured to the slide 4. Aspring 42 urges the camplate 40 to the abutment strip 41.

Each one of the middle pincers 23 (FIG. 4) includes a stationary jaw 43 and a movable jaw 44 mounted on a holder 45. The latter, in its turn, is mounted in a housing 46. The last-mentioned housing is provided witha toothed rack 47 meshing with a pinion'48 keyed to a f shaft 49 (FIG. 5) rotatable with a handwheel (not shown). The provision of the rack 47 makes it possible to adjust the pincers 23 in a vertical direction along includes a reducing gear 8, a camshaft 9, a foot control uidew 50 1). R v sed. in the. ostin The housings of the pair of pincers 23 are positioned by the outline of the sole of the last'and are pivotable in two perpendicular planes, respectively, about pivot axes 51 and 52 (FIG. 5), i.e. longitudinally and transversely of the last. These motions are essential for effecting longitudinal and transverse drafting of a shoe upper. Opening and closing of the jaws 43 and 44 is effected in a manner similar to that described hereinabove in connection with opening and closing of the jaws and 26 of the toe pincers 22.

The forepart pincers 24 is of a structure identical to that of the middle pincers 23, its function being to turn over the edges of the upper onto the forepart portion of the insole.

The lasting plates 4 (FIGS. 7, 8 and 9) are mounted on a power-driven slide 7 and are so positioned relative to. the last 15 that the ends thereof are somewhat spaced from the toe of the last. These plates are supported by respective carriers 53 intermediate of a pair of interconnected massive plates 54.and 55 mounted on the pivot axes 56 in the slot57 of the slide 7. The slide 7 with the lasting plates 4 is reciprocated in operation by a hydraulic cylinder 58 mounted on the framework 1 and connected with the slide 7 by means of a bracket 59. The object of the reciprocation is to advance the lasting plates into the working area of the machine, i.e. toward the last 15. To effect lasting of the forepart of the shoe upper being processed, the plates 4 should be lowered onto the last. This is done with the help of another hydraulic cylinder 60 of which the plunger rod 61 carries a rocket 62 with followers 63. The latter engage in operation a cam plate (not shown), making the lasting plates lower in operation under the action of disc springs 64. Vertical position of the lasting plates 4 relative to the last 15 can be adjusted with set screws 65. A shoe upper is secured on the last 15 by a mechanism 66 (FIG. 10) including a heel clamp 67 mounted on an arm 68. This same arm 68 carries a housing 69 receiving thereinside a spring 70- biasing a stop7l against the last. The stop is used to provide for proper vertical positioning of the upper on the last. The spring 70 biases the stop 71 to abut against the last 15, while a pin 72 prevents rotation of the stop 71. The pivotable arm 68 is connected to the plunger rod 73 of a hydraulic cylinder 74.

The clamps 13 (FIG. 11) retaining the carrier 14 on the conveyor 12 are actuated by a hydraulic cylinder 75 controlled by a cam 78 mounted on the shaft 9, with the help of a hydraulic control system of any suitable known structure (not shown).

The hydraulic cylinder 20 is actuated by a hydraulic system (not shown) controlled by another cam 79 mounted on the same camshaft 9. The hydraulic cylinder 58 is likewise actuated by a hydraulic system which is known per se, controlled by a cam 80 also mounted on the camshaft 9.

The machine further includes a plate 81 adapted to retain an insole against the last at pull-over and lasting, carried on the plunger rod 82 of a hydraulic cylinder 83 mounted on the horizontal housing 5. The hydraulic cylinder 83 is controlled by a cam 84 mounted on the camshaft 9. The camshaft 9 receives rotation from an electric motor 85 through a worm gear couple 86, an interchangeable pair of meshing gears 87, another worm gear couple 88 and a chain transmission 89. Deenergization of the electric motor after a pull-over and lasting cycle has been completed is effected by a cam 90 mounted on the camshaft 9.

The foot control unit 10 enables the operator to control the operation of the machine and includes a pivoted arm 91 carrying a foot pedal 92 on one end thereof, the other end being pivotally connected with a rod 93 coupled through a nut 94 with another rod 95.

The rod 95, in its turn, is pivotally connected with a bar- 96 carrying a cam plate associated with the control valve of a hydraulic control system (not shown) of a' suitable known st ructur e.

To automatically control the plate 81 and the pincers 22, 23 and 24 when lasting the forepart of a shoe upper on a last, the herein disclosed machine includes cams 98 and 99 of which the cam 98 controls through a hydraulic system the hydraulic cylinders 32 of all the pincers, whereas the cam 99 is associated with the hydraulic'cylinder 83 of the retaining plate 81. The two cams are mounted on a slide 100 provided with a screw 101 by means of which the slide is connected with the plunger rod 61 of the hydraulic cylinder actuating the lasting plates 4.

OPERATION Theh erein disclosed machine operates, as follows.

Prior to commencing an operating cycle, the major above-described assemblies of the machine should be put in an initial position, so that the machine can be operable as a component part of either an automatic or semi-automatic production line. i

The drafting head 2 should be in its uppermost position, so that the pincers 3 should clear the last 15 by a distance ensuring unobstructed motion of the lasts on their carriers 14 with the conveyor 12, which motion is transverse in relation to the work-performing members of the machine. The slide 7 of the lasting plates 4 should be in its extreme right-hand (see FIG. 1) position, so that the lasting plates should be retracted from the last 15 and their ends should be spaced from the toe of the last.

The pivoted arm 68 of the heel clamp 67, with the spring-biased stop 71 should be pivoted into its extreme left-hand (see FIG. 10) position away from the last 15, to provide for unobstructed motion of the lasts on the carriers with the conveyor 12.

When the carrier 14 brings the last 15 into the operating zone of the herein disclosed machine, the carrier is clamped by the clamps 13. As the carrier is thus clamped, the toe of the last is brought into its proper operating position, irrespectively of the size of the last, whfie fiiespring biasedstop 71 moves in its inclined housing 69 and sets itself in a vertical plane to indicate the vertical position of the counter of the shoe upper, determined by the size of the last 15, the stop 71 serving as an abutment against which the heel part of the upper is positioned,prior to its being clamped to the last.

The cam (76) on the camshaft (77) operates a limit,

switch, whereby the electric motor (85) is energized and transmits its rotation through the two worm gear couples (86 and 88) and the interchangeable gears 87 of the reducer (8) to the chain transmission 89 driving the camshaft (9) carrying the cams 78 to 80, 84 and 90.

The cam (78) actuates the control valves of the hydraulic system to start lowering the slide 4 of the drafting head (2) into the working position of the latter by means of the respective hydraulic cylinder (18) and to advance it toward the last by means of the hydraulic cylinder (20). Simultaneously, the hydraulic cylinder (38) associated with the slide (37) of the toe pincers (22) drives (his slide to lower the are pincers-belo w the'level of the other pincers, along a path determined by the cam plate (40), and also to move toward the operator. Thereafter the electric motor 85' is deenergized. Then the heel part of the upper is adjusted vertically by the stop (71) pressed by the spring 70 against the last 15, and the foot pedal 92 is depressed for the clamp 67 to press the heel part of the upper tightly against the last 15.

This done, the edge of the toe part of the shoe upper is introduced into the toe pincers 22, and the pedal 92" of the control unit is depressed to actuate this control unit 10. The bar 96 of the last-mentioned mechanism actuates the cam (98) operating the control-valve of the hydraulic control system, whereby the toe pincers 22 is closed and lifted by the hydraulic cylinder 38 tothe level of the middle pincers 23 and the forepart pincers 24, the edges of the upper being in this way automatically guided into these pincers. The operators task is merely to smooth out the shoe upper along its perimeter, directing it toward the toe pincers.

With the foot pedal 92 being depressed once more, the pincers 23 and 24 are closed, the plate 81 lowers! onto the insole, and the drafting head is moved in two directions, viz. away from the last in a horizontal plane and upwardly, thus effecting longitudinal drafting of the upper and transverse pull-over of the upper on the last, the last-mentioned motions being effected by means of the hydraulic cylinders and (18). When the pull-over operation is completed, the machine halts.

The operator makes use of the mirror (16) to evaluate the properness of the pull-over, and, if necessary, the foot pedal 92 is operated to return the drafting head 2 with its pincers 3 to its initial position, to repeat thev operation of pulling the upper over the last 15.

When the operator is satisfied with the quality of the pull-over, the pedal 92 is depressed to operate the cam (90) and thus to energize the electric motor (85), for the lasting cycle to be performed automatically.

The cam (80) actuates the cylinder (58) which drives the slide 7 with the lasting plates (4) toward the last 15.

,Then the plunger rod 61 of the hydraulic cylinder 60 is driven by this cylinder, together with the rocket (62) carried by this rod and connected with the lasting plates 4. When the lasting plates have been driven to the outline of the sole, the springs (64) lower them onto the last 15) by means of the followers 63, whereby the upper is tightly pressed to the insole. The pincers 3 are pulled by the upper and thus rock toward the last, while the plate (81) rises to make space for the lasting plates 4. The pincers are opened in succession, gtgting with the toe pincers 22, bymeans of the cam (98). Raising of the plate (81) is effected by a command sent from the respective cam (99) to the cylinder (83).

I When the lasting operation is completed, the plate 81 is lowered once again onto the plates 4, following a command sent by the cam (99), in which way both compression of the lasting edge as well as cementing of g the shoe upper to the insole, are effected.

Following a predetermined time exposure, the mechanisms of the herein disclosed machine, controlled by the cams 78, 80, 84 and mounted on' the camshaft 9 are returned to their respective initial positionsfand the machine halts. The last 15 on its carrier 14 is carried by the successive step of the intermittently driven conveyor 12 away from the machine, and a successive last with a shoe upper to be lasted is brought by the same conveyor into the operating area of the machine.

What we claim is:

1. A machine for pulling over and cement lasting of theforepart of'aEHbETrfifie'r, comprising: a Tasffil ried to support thereon a shoe upper, positioned so that its sole faces upwardly; a frame with a horizontal housing; a' drafting head disposed above said last; a plurality of ai ssisllwyntsd for pirqtina m sn .91 said. draftin head, adapted to grip a shoe upper on said last; a power-driven slide mounted on said frame, said slide supporting said drafting head and being adapted to move said drafting head with said pincers in a horizontal direction to effect longitudinal drafting of said upper; a second power-driven slide mounted on said horizontal housing, said second slide also supporting said and being mounted on said third slide to be displaced into a position at which they underlie thetoe of said last, to g r ip the toe portion of said upper andthereafter to be returned to their initial position to guide the Y edge of said upper into said stationary pincers; a fourth .199 insw s snsaid f am lestin uiat spaced from said last and supported by said fourt hxflide to be moved horizontally toward said last, to effect lasting of the forepart of said upper on said last.

2. The machine as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a cam plate; a holder of said toe pincers supporting thereon said cam plate; an abutment strip rigidly secured to said second slide of said drafting head effecting vertical motion of said head, said cam plate being adapted to engage said strip to effect movement of said toe pincers to underlie the toe of said last.

3. The machine as claimed in claim 1, further comprising, a heel clamp adapted to secure said upper on said last; an arm pivotally mounted on said frame and carrying thereon said heel clamp; a spring-urged stop mounted on said arm and providing proper vertical positioning of said shoe upper on said last. 

1. A machine for pulling over and cement lasting of the forepart of a shoe upper, comprising: a last adapted to support thereon a shoe upper, positioned so that its sole faces upwardly; a frame with a horizontal housing; a drafting head disposed above said last; a plurality of pincers mounted for pivoting motion on said drafting head, adapted to grip a shoe upper on said last; a power-driven slide mounted on said frame, said slide supporting said drafting head and being adapted to move said drafting head with said pincers in a horizontal direction to effect longitudinal drafting of said upper; a second power-driven slide mounted on said horizontal housing, said second slide also supporting said drafting head and being adapted to move said drafting head together with said pincers vertically, to effect transverse pull-over of said upper; one of said pincers being positioned by the outline of the sole of said last and being stationary relative to said drafting head; a third slide mounted on said first-mentioned slide; another one of said plurality of pincers being toe pincers and being mounted on said third slide to be moved to a position at which they underlie the toe of said last, to grip the toe portion of said upper, and thereafter to be returned to their initial position to guide the edge of said upper into said stationary pincers; a fourth slide mounted on said frame; lasting plates spaced from said last and supported by said fourth slide to be moved horizontally toward said last, to effect lasting of the forepart of said upper on said last.
 2. The machine as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a cam plate; a holder of said toe pincers supporting thereon said cam plate; an abutment strip rigidly secured to said second slide of said drafting head effecting vertical motion of said head, said cam plate being adapted to engage said strip to effect movement of said toe pincers to underlie the toe of said last.
 3. The machine as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a heel clamp adapted to secure said upper on Said last; an arm pivotally mounted on said frame and carrying thereon said heel clamp; a spring-urged stop mounted on said arm and providing proper vertical positioning of said shoe upper on said last. 